Pompeii was not a grand imperial city. It was a prosperous, middling Roman town of approximately 11,000 people — a commercial hub on the Bay of Naples, busy with traders, craftsmen, politicians, gladiators, priests, slaves, and tourists visiting the nearby coastal resort of Herculaneum. On the morning of August 24, 79 AD, its residents woke up to an ordinary day. By evening, the city was buried under six metres of volcanic ash, preserved so perfectly that nearly 2,000 years later we can read the graffiti on its walls, see the food in its bakeries, and understand the last moments of its inhabitants.

What Pompeii reveals about ordinary Roman life is more vivid and more human than any written source. It is history without the filter of what people chose to record — raw, unedited, and sometimes startling.

A thermopolium food counter in Pompeii with built-in ceramic vessels
A thermopolium — a Roman fast food counter — in Pompeii. These establishments served hot food and drink from built-in ceramic vessels. Pompeii had at least 80 of them, suggesting most residents ate out regularly rather than cooking at home. 📷 Wikimedia Commons / CC-BY-SA

A City That Never Slept

Pompeii was densely, noisily urban. The streets were narrow — typically three to four metres wide — and permanently busy with carts, animals, and pedestrians. Stepping stones allowed people to cross the street without wading through the mixture of water, animal waste, and general detritus that accumulated in the roadway. The ruts worn into these stepping stones by generations of cart wheels are still visible today.

The city had at least 80 thermopolia — Roman fast food counters where hot food was served from ceramic vessels embedded in masonry counters. Archaeological analysis of one recently excavated thermopolium found traces of duck, pig, fish, snails, and beef in the serving vessels, along with wine mixed with fava beans — a common ancient preservative. Most Pompeians, who lived in apartments without kitchens, ate most of their meals at these establishments.

There were also at least 35 bakeries, identified by their distinctive millstones for grinding grain and domed ovens. When archaeologists excavated one bakery, they found 81 loaves of bread still in the oven — carbonised but intact, their baker's stamp still visible. The baker had not had time to remove them.

The Graffiti — Direct Voices From the Past

Over 11,000 individual pieces of graffiti have been recorded on Pompeii's walls. They are among the most extraordinary documents from the ancient world because they were written by ordinary people — not by politicians, historians, or philosophers — and they cover the full range of human concerns with disarming directness.

Electoral endorsements were everywhere: "Neighbours, I ask you to elect Aulus Vettius Firmus as aedile. He is worthy of the city." Campaign notices covered entire building facades, sometimes with counter-endorsements from opponents scrawled alongside them. Pompeian politics was apparently conducted at least partly through competitive wall writing.

"Phileros is a eunuch." "Samius to Cornelius: go hang yourself." "Whoever loves, let him flourish. Let him perish who knows not love. Let him perish twice over whoever forbids love." — Selected Pompeian graffiti

Love poetry appeared alongside insults. Gladiators were celebrated like modern sports stars — their victories and physical attributes noted admiringly by fans. One inscription lists a gladiator named Celadus as "the girls' heartthrob." Another simply reads: "Successus the weaver loves the innkeeper's slave girl named Iris. She doesn't care about him at all, but he begs her to take pity on him. Written by his rival. So long."

A street in Pompeii showing stepping stones and wheel ruts
A Pompeian street showing the stepping stones that allowed pedestrians to cross without contact with the roadway, and the deep ruts worn by centuries of cart traffic. 📷 Wikimedia Commons / CC-BY-SA

The Social Structure — Slavery and Freedom

Pompeii's prosperity depended on enslaved labour. Estimates suggest that between 30 and 35 percent of Pompeii's population were enslaved people, working in households, workshops, farms, and commercial establishments. Many of the city's most successful businesses were run by freedmen — formerly enslaved people who had been manumitted and risen to prosperity through commerce.

The Vettii brothers, whose house contains some of Pompeii's most spectacular frescoes, were almost certainly freedmen who had become wealthy through trade. Their house — large, elaborately decorated, equipped with an extensive garden — demonstrates how dramatically social mobility could occur in Roman society, at least for those fortunate enough to gain freedom.

The Eruption — What Actually Happened

The eruption began around 1:00 PM on August 24 with a massive explosion that sent a column of ash and pumice 33 kilometres into the atmosphere. For the first several hours, the primary danger was falling pumice — volcanic stone the size of golf balls raining down at potentially lethal velocity. Many Pompeians sheltered in their homes, hoping the fall would stop.

It did not. The pumice accumulation reached a depth of nearly three metres — collapsing roofs and trapping those sheltering inside. Around midnight, a series of pyroclastic surges — superheated clouds of gas and ash moving at hurricane speed — swept through the city. These killed everyone who had remained, whether sheltering or fleeing, almost instantaneously. Death came from extreme heat and the inhalation of superheated gases, not from suffocation under ash as was once believed.

The plaster casts
When Giuseppe Fiorelli excavated Pompeii in the 1860s, he discovered that the decomposed bodies of victims had left hollow spaces in the hardened ash. By injecting liquid plaster into these cavities, he created casts that preserve the exact positions and even facial expressions of people in their final moments. Over 1,000 such casts have been made. They remain among the most powerful objects in any museum.

What Pompeii Changed

Pompeii was rediscovered in 1748 and its excavation transformed the Western world's understanding of antiquity. Before Pompeii, ancient Rome was known primarily through texts and monumental ruins. Pompeii revealed the texture of ordinary life — the colours of Roman painting, the layout of Roman homes, the food Romans ate, the words ordinary Romans wrote on walls when they thought no one important was watching.

It also changed art and architecture across Europe. The neoclassical movement of the 18th and 19th centuries was directly inspired by Pompeian design. The wall paintings, garden layouts, and decorative motifs of Pompeii appeared in buildings from London to St Petersburg as wealthy patrons sought to connect themselves to the newly revealed vitality of the ancient world.